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PLAIN AND CONCISE TREATISE 



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TWENTY ENGRAVINGS, WITH EXPLANATIONS: 

a / BY D. HULL. 

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NEW-YORK : 

S. e. DOUGLASS, PRINTER, No. SI EOI.TON-STREKT. 
1844. 









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TO THE TRADE, 



1 should not have assumed the liberty of intruding another publication of this kind 
upon the profession, nor yet have arrogated to myself the character of a " Teacher of 
Cutting" were I not thoroughly convinced that I have, by a successful experience of 
thirty years in this art, matured a system, {not of arbitrary rules,) but of natural and 
philosophical principles, adapted to every size, shape and position of the human body. 

I am fully aware of the great difficulty of rendering any rule easy and practical in 
its application, and at the same time safe in its result. I have made myself acquain- 
ted with the different systems of the age, all of which suggest many useful and prof- 
itable views, but none of which in their demonstration and practical detail afford the 
learner or the cutter, such a plan as is necessary for the one and convenient for the 
other. 

To accomplish this object, I have availed myself of all the resources which the 
science affords, which, added to the continued practice and study of a whole life-time, 
I am enabled to present to the trade a system so natural and easy in its application, so 
readily demonstrated, so straight-forward and simple in its operation, that the most 
unsophisticated learner can understand the cause and effect of the slightest variance. 

The guides accompanying each plate, are so explicit that it would be scarcely pos- 
sible to make a mistake. But to put error beyond a possibility, I have explained in 
full each figure, and directed every movement which the cutter will be required to 
make in delineating every description of gentlemen's dress, — which, aided by ordina- 
ry good taste and judgement, cannot fail of producing a fit, easy and graceful on the 
wearer, and which will prove the highest satisfaction and pleasure to the cutter. 

N. B. The unparalleled success attending the use of my system; the universal 
approbation of the style and fit of coats cut by it, and the unanimous approval and 
and confidence bestowed upon it by over 500 persons, who on using it have induced 
me to publish this my second edition. 

I am, gentlemen, 

most Respectfully, yours, &c. 
New- York, June, 1 844, D. H ULL. 



Different Forms, 



First draw a scale conforming to the shoulder measure you have taken, no matter what 
form he may be — if good form his shoulders will measure 26 inches, and his neck 27; 
if short in the neck reduce the draft on hack and 'fore-part in equal proportion, making 
it agree with the measure taken from A to A ; if stooped, his back is not made any 
shorter, but should only be reduced on the side, and also on the shoulder seam of the 
fore-part, that the balance of the coat may be preserved. If he be high in the neck, 
make his back higher and wider, as also his fore-part ; should he be broken down in 
the shoulder then reduce the lower point of the shoulder seam, and take a seam off 
the upper point of side seam, also being careful to preserve the original size; where 
the measure crosses the shoulder at the scale fits invariably. In case your customer 
should measure short in the neck without being square shouldered, you should not 
reduce his neck to the measure, as it is better to flatter his neck and thereby produce a 
better looking as well as feeling coat. 

As coats are cut large, you had better draw a scale up to the measure, and after 
cutting a coat or two, you can determine what size you should draft to suit the peculi- 
ar views of your customer. 



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Directions for Measuring and Drafting Pantaloons, 



First, take the length of the outside seam to the front of the boot heel, and for spring 
or gaiter bottoms you sweep forward on the instep, leaving a chalk mark on the side 
of your customers foot, — then get the length of inside seam, which you can best do by 
running a cord through a loop at the end of your tape, — you will sweep this also by 
the length given, from front of boot heel forward to agree with the outside sweep. 
Let your customer decide where he wishes his pantaloons to come on the boot, and 
chalk round the instep at that place. Now to get a correct measure of the boot, first 
take the bigness of hind-part of pants, placing the end of your measure at the point 
made by the sweep on side of boot, and the chalk round the instep, and the measure 
round the heel to the point on the opposite side of the foot ; next get the size round 
the heel, next the width of shank, next size round the instep and last the bigness 
of the ancle. By refering to the diagram you will plainly perceive what should be 
done. 






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Explanation of Plate B. 



Back of dress coat A. — In drafting first strike a line for the back seam, then 
square out on the top; go down 4 on the scale, and square out for the lower line of 
the back scye, then go up 12 for the width of the back scye, make your back 3 wide ; at 
top 9 and at the waist 9. Strike a line from 3 at top of side seam to small of waist 
on back seam, and sweep the lower part of side seam by its length. 

FORE-PART B. 

In getting the perpendicular line by which the fore-part is drafted great care must 
be taken to get it on the right bias ; if too much on the bias it will throw wrinkles 
across the back, when buttoned ; this fullness which is often unjustly charged to the 
journeyman, is caused by the fore part being cut too much on the bias ; for instance if 
your customer be very small at the waist and the balance measure brings the lower 
point of the side seam in very much, the coat when buttoned will always draw wrin- 
kles across the back; you will avoid this by coming in from the back edge of the 
cloth, for the top of the shoulder 5 or 6 inches more than at the waist for a common 
size man, then strike a line down the cloth, from which you will commence to draft 
your fore-part ; first make a dot at the top of the line at the upper edge of the cloth, 
go down from thence 1 on the scale, then square out for the top of the side seam, and 
placing your scale on the line as seen on diagram for the different forms, dot at 6, 10, 
and 13, sweep from 10 to top of shoulder by two-thirds of shoulder measure; go down 
1 1 for the depth of scye from 1, and shape the scye from 6 at top of side seam. 

SIDE SEAM. 

To get your side seam first lay your back on at 6, and dot on the perpendicular line 
at small of waist then draw a line from 13 to the dot, sweep from 6 at the top of side 
seam into this line by one and 8 on scale, then come in 14 at the top of side seam and 
sweep by one on scale ; the cutter will keep his eye on the shape of scye and make it to 
his taste. 

SKIRT C. 

Square in at the top after getting the width of plete, come in 6 and go up 12, strike 
a line from the plete across to 12 for the spring of skirt, if V's are taken out of skirt at 
top it should be .rounded as seen on diagram. 

SLEEVE D. yj 

Strike a line for the out side seam, go down on this line 7, til off, then square out, 
then go out 9 and make a dot, making it a pivot to sweep the sleeve head, add 12 on the 
inside seam, then make the additional line commencing at the top of the sleeve head 
by your eye, go in 12 for the underside sleeve and strike a line to the elbow, go in 6 at 
the hand, make the sleeve 7 wide at the wrist ; and 4 two inches below the elbow. 

These are general rules, you will of course always measure your customer for the 
sleeve. 



■Hi 



FROCK SKIRT, G. 

Get the length of skirt in front, go up 6, and draw a line at the top of skirt and at 6, 
back from the front edge, get the size you want your skirt at the top, and sweep by 
one half the waist, minus the back. 

VEST, H & I. 

Is a Vest, both double and single breasted, go back as wide as you wish your lap- 
pell, and strike a line, and square out on the top, and go out a 6 for the top of the 
shoulder, go down a 6, and sweep the " neck gorge," for the double breast by 6 on 
•the scale, — to get the shoulder seam, sweep by the length of the vest; for the single 
breasted neck gorge, go down 4, and out from the point of the shoulder 9, then strike 
a line across the 4, the length of the shoulder seam is 6, go down 3, then square 
out a 4, for the front of the scye, go down a 1, and square out for the bottom of the 
scye, then proceed to make the scye according to your taste. As to the size of the 
breast and the width of the lappell, the fashion will always regulate that; a V is 
sometimes taken out of the neck gorge ; when it is very much wadded a strip of 
-about half an inch is taken out of the welt, commencing at the side seam, according 
to the latest Paris report. 

I. 

Is a Vest Back, from the top of the back go down 8, and square out 4, make the top 
of the back 8, go down for the bottom of the back scye 1 and 12, which will make the 
back a 12 longer than the fore-part. In my experience I have always found that a 
<l short back spoils the set of a vest." The back is here made a little too long, and by 
being so, is just long enough. 

SACK, K & L. 

In cutting the back, go in 10 at the waist on the double of the cloth, and lay out the 
top of the back the same as other backs, except the back scye, which is made as low as 
the scye of the fore-part, make the small of the waist very low down, say 19, 20, 21 
inches, for ordinary size, so there be no fullness between the lower extremity of the 
hips, and the small of the waist. Make the back 6 wide at the small of the waist, 
sometimes as wide as 5 or even more, if the coat is not very long make the bottom of 
the back 1 in the scale, if it be longer make it wider. 

L. 

Is the Fore-part, (if double breasted,) go in enough from the front edge of the cloth 
for the lappell, then strike a line down, and square out on the top 4, then go down 1, 
then go back 1, to intersect the 1 from the top point of the shoulder, then strike a line 
on the Angle that this will get, and this angle gets the balance of the fore-part, then 
proceed to draft the fore-part the same as another coat, then apply the back to the side 
seam, and take off from the fore-part as much as is added on the back. If the customer 
wishes a whole back, you are to draft it the same as above described, and let the full- 
ness remain in the back, for when the back is straight behind, it must necessary be full. 
These coats are intended to be loose all the way down, the only "fit" is to be about the 
shoulders. For a man 5 feet 8 inches high, 34 to 36 inches is about the usual length 
for a body coat; and 40 to 42 inches for an over coat. In cutting the neck gorge for 
the double breast, go down 6, for a single breast about 5. 

OVER COAT. 

In cutting an over coat your measures are taken the same as peletot coats, except 
we measure over the coat for the breast and waist ; then you must draw a scale 11-2 
inch larger than your shoulder measure would call for a dress coat ; but still your 
balance and other measures are the same. Now the trouble is to make proper allow- 
ance ; as over coats are apt to be too short on the balance measure from the top of the 
shoulder to the waist, you must therefore allow on this measure 1 1-2 inch, and the 
others in a smaller proportion from A. to A, half an inch over measure, from A to B 
quarter inch over the measure, etc. 



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